Garbage Disposal Plumbing - Plumbing Questions
1.30 Plumbing garbage disposal?

Q. Trying to plumb a new insulated garbage disposal. I'm stumped by a problem. The height of the sewer drain in the wall is 13" from the deck of the cabinet. The discharge on the disposal is 13.5" from the deck. How much lower does the sewer drain have to be in order to accommodate for the p-trap? Can I use this disposal or will I have to try to find one that will sit higher up? Any help anyone can provide would be great.

A. Anything lower than the output of the unit is fine ! A new P trap kit always is lower on the end that goes into waste pipe. 5" is more than enough.

1.20 My garbage disposal blows eveything back up into the ajoined sink when I first turn it on. How can I fix it?

Q. The drain appears to work fine. It just seems that when I first turn on the garbage disposal it sends a gyser up through the other sink drain. I have checked to see that the plumbing is done right as well, though I don't see any problems there.

A. The drain needs cleaning and you can do it without removing any piping. Heat up some water and carefully pour it down the drain without the disposal after you have also poured down 1 cup of white vinegar and 1/2 cup of baking soda. Link us @

1.00 REPULSIVE smell in kitchen drain!!!! Any natural cleaners to use?

Q. There was food sitting in my kitchen drain from a party. After I cleaned all the dishes, the drain REALLY stunk. I've already put baking soda, salt, and vinegar down there, but it's still horrible!!!! I don't have any cleaning products, because I use all natural stuff...and I don't have bleach. Anything else I can use? I can't use bleach...I have a septic system and was told I couldn't use that.

A. I'm sorry Hun but if you want to to get the smell OUT you will have to buy an ALL NATURAL BLEACH. This will do it. BUT if you have a garbage disposal or what not just cut up lemon or oranges and run that through. I cant believe that the baking soda and vinegar didn't do it. That should have taken care of it all. Good luck sweetie.

1.00 Brownish-red flies in my apartment?

Q. My sorry @ss management company can't get rid of these reddish-brown flies that are in my apartment. The exterminator said they are drain flies, and they sprayed, but they came back? It sounds like they live in the garbage disposal that the previous lessee didn't clean out? I just moved in the place, and I know I didn't bring anything in here. Does anyone know anything about getting rid of them? If they clean the drain trap, will they go away? My house constantly smells like Clorox because I am cleaning so much, so I KNOW it's not anything I'm leaving around, etc.

A. Fly traps!! hang them in ordinary places. These flys can drive you mad and make you feel like flipping your lid. I have one in my face right now. Pour clorox in your drains and pray that you didn't leave an old bag of potatoes in you cupboard. Oh and by the way most local gas stations don't carry fly traps. You want to keep them on hand for any future problems because when nine oclock at night rolls around you will wish you had one.

1.00 What's the best thing for clean-smelling drains? Baking soda doesn't seem to make that much of difference.?

Q. I did the lemon, but the smell seems to come back in a day or two. I think the black rubber piece in the garbage disposal may be a large part of the problem, but on this model, it is NOT removable!

A. If you have a garbage disposal, remove the rubber piece and wash it in a bleach or vinegar solution. Then use a baby bottle brush with a bleach or vinegar solution to clean the inside of the disposal.

1.00 Can a septic pumping company sabotage your system?

Q. I posted a question about my current situation yesterday and got some good information but what I really have a question about is can the issue we are having with our septic and sewer drainage be caused by an unscrupulous company or a technician that doesn't know what he's doing?? Here is the link to what I already posted;_ylt=AnM.CPwsrkmq4SIC8kZiJvMazKIX;_ylv=3?qid=20100618184930AAuMMah you can read what is happening if you want to. I am hoping maybe someone who works as a septic and sewer cleaner and repair person can tell me if it's possible that someone can intentionally or unintentionally clog leach lines so that you will have to have expensive repairs or not? I do realize it could have gone bad on it's own. Or maybe this is just a problem of too much rain, I just think it could be suspicious and wondered if it's possible. I have read things online saying that "Without proper pump-outs, solids will flow into and clog the drainfield, resulting in an expensive repair process." Can someone make this happen when they pump it by possibly breaking up the slug and then pumping to a certain level then letting the solids flow into the leach lines before finishing the pumping? We just had ours pumped a month and a half ago and now it is backing up into the house and draining very, very slowly. Thank god at least it is clean water, (well not clean, clean, lol, but clear) We can only use limited water and when it rises into the downstairs shower we have to pump it out with a sub-pump. We haven't called anyone yet because if it is do to the rains I was told pumping could just be a waste of money as it will refill. Thanks John. :-) The only reason why I was wondering about this is other ppl said they were dissatisfied with this company & I read on That "a rectangle of floating scum layer material can fall from the septic tank inlet baffle area as the effluent level in the tank drops. Service operators call this the "pillow" and its appearance is important. If this material is left in the tank baffles the system may become clogged." I was concerned if this could have happened. Wow check 2x a year that will be hard since the lid is 3' 6" deep. Yikes that's a lot of digging. lol The guy that pumped it said it only needed serviced every 3 years since it was a very large tank and only 2 ppl in house. We flush notta but what's supposed to be flushed, no lady stuff, lol, sorry TMI, lol and have no garbage disposal and only use liquid soaps, no powder. Thanks for the info John! Hey do you recommend additives? I read on sites it's no good John, since it sounds like you have experience with this, do you have an approximate guess at what it costs to have this repaired, ie new leach field installed? Just a guess of course? I know it is probably different in different parts of the country. Oh and is there a way to test the leach lines to be sure they are bad and need replaced? Thanks Hydroace, I really appreciate the reply! More good information. I am going to have to google some of the info as I'm guessing the "header" you speak of is the distribution box?? And the "footer" would be the end of one of the lateral tubes?? Or do I have that backwards? Heck I might not even be close, lol. ( I know I should be calling out a professional by now but I have also read that they can't do anything to fix/replace your drain field until the ground is dry, if you've been having flooding, which we have. It keeps raining 2+ inches a day! Maybe there's some hope in the future as it's not supposed to rain for the next 2 1/2 days. Plus I like to know as much as I can before someone comes out so I don't get ripped off too badly, lol.

A. I'm gonna agree; the 'honey dipper' can't do anything to cause the issues you're experiencing. Here are a couple of comments, just some food for thought. First, regards digging up the access port, I'd suggest putting some kind of a standoff over the access port for the septic tank - one which has a cover just a few inches but beneath the surface of the ground. For example, I cut the bottom out of a bucket for a sump pump and put it over the access port. When I needed access to the septic tank, I just exposed the cover to the sump bucket and opened it to gain access to the septic tank. I have to confess I only did so every 5 years (but I never had any problems either ;-) On to the bigger issue, the tile field. I've done a lot of work in construction and land development and there's a special piece of equipment used to compact ground - a sheep's foot. They have a large drum with raised pads on it, concentrating the weight of the drum on the pads and compacting the ground. The machine was designed to simulate the compaction that occurs in paddocks and along trails frequented by large animals. I read your first post and noted that your tile field may have been compacted by the horses you keep. To check the condition of your tile field, first expose a part of the header at the upstream end of the tile field to see if the pipe is full of effluent or if it's empty. Then expose the footer for the field to verify whether it's draining or holding water. If necessary, run a hose into the header to check the footer. If the footer is empty (even after running water into the header) effluent isn't getting through the laterals in the tile field. You probably have crushed or filled laterals, and it's time for a new field. If the header is empty effluent isn't getting from the septic tank into the tile field, and you need to expose the pipe between the two and clean it out. This may require that you install a cleanout. If effluent spurts out of the header or the footer when you inspect those pipes, the tile field is full and not draining properly; time for new tile field. Good luck with it! Edit: Sorry, I've gotta explain myself better. The effluent leaves your house through a pipe and enters the septic tank(s), which traps anything that floats or sinks, and a relatively clear effluent leaves the tank(s) and enters a distribution box. At its simplest, the distribution box is nothing more than a tee in the line, sending the effluent to either side along the header. The header distributes the effluent to several laterals, which run the length of the tile field. In open tile fields, the laterals are simply capped at their end, while in closed tile fields, they are connected to a common footer at their downstream end. If yours is a closed system, you'll need to find the closed ends and check to see if the lateral is full or empty. Hope this helps.

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Garbage Disposal Plumbing

 Plumbing - Garbage Disposal Plumbing A garbage disposal typically has a life span of at least a decade. There may be occasional minor problems with your unit, and in the case of major garbage disposal repairs, garbage disposal replacement is often the better option. When it comes to installing a garbage disposal, the procedure itself is fairly straight forward, but does require extensive plumbing, as well as electrical abilities. First, you have to remove the P trap or waste trap, as well as the sink strainer. Now, install the mounting assembly that consists of a flange and a mounting ring. Tighten the assembly, and then connect the power cord. Mount the garbage disposal, and connect the drain lines. If necessary, connect a dishwasher line too after the drain lines have been established. Lock into place, and check to see if the unit is running properly.

 Cleveland plumber in Cleveland, Ohio To make sure that your garbage disposal unit needs few repairs, never fill the unit above its capacity. Don't pour grease down the unit or shove bones, rubber or other objects that can block the unit. Always run water before and after every use, and run cold water while the unit is in operation. Do not pour household cleaners down the unit. If you have placed something in the garbage disposal like shells, bones or corn husks, pull out with tongs. Don't use your hands to pull the object out. For cleaning your garbage disposal, run a combination of ice cubes and rock salt for 5 seconds through your unit. To deodorize your garbage disposer, grind a lemon through it while you run warm water.

Look to our fast and reliable system to connect with professional plumbers for help installing a garbage disposer or garbage disposal repairs. Our system works quickly to connect you with licensed and certified garbage disposal unit specialists in Cleveland. You can decide whether you want a plumber to contact you.

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